There are a great many cosmetic compositions for which properties of gloss of the deposited film, after application on keratinous materials (skin, lips, integumentary appendages), are desired. We may mention for example lipsticks, nail varnish or also certain hair-care products.
In order to obtain such a result, it is possible to combine particular raw materials, notably lanolins, with so-called gloss oils, such as the polybutenes, which however have high viscosity; or esters of acids or of fatty alcohols with a high number of carbons; or certain vegetable oils; or esters resulting from the partial or total esterification of a hydroxylated aliphatic compound with an aromatic acid, as described in patent application EP1097699.
It is also known to combine lanolins with polyesters obtained by a multi-step reaction of castor oil with isostearic acid and then with succinic acid, as described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,342,527.
To improve the gloss of the deposited film, as well as its durability, it has also been proposed to use esters resulting from the condensation of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of the “neo” type, notably in FR2838049.
EP1457201 describes a composition that combines a polyester of hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglycerides and an oil of low molecular weight selected from polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated polydecenes, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, esters of linear fatty acids, hydroxylated esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of C24-C28 branched fatty acids, silicone oils and/or oils of vegetable origin.
Patent application EP0792637 describes a composition combining an aromatic ester and a polymer of the polybutene or polyisobutene type. Patent application EP1155687 describes a method comprising incorporating, in an oil phase comprising a cosmetically acceptable oil, an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
However, even if these compositions and combinations improve gloss significantly, they are still deemed inadequate with respect to long durability of said gloss, over time.